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‘Scientists from the RAND Corporation have created this model to illustrate how a “home computer” could look in the year 2004. However, the needed technology will not be economically feasible for the average home. Also the scientists readily admit that the computer will require not yet invented technology to actually work, but 50 years from now scientific progress is expected to solve these problems. With teletype interface and the Fortran language, the computer will be easy to use.’ [Popular Mechanics Magazine, 1954]

The year 2004 has come and gone. Where’s my steering wheel?! At least we have nutritional meals down to pocket-size packets if not in pill form, and monorail development is on the rise again.Virgin is on the good foot, grav-boots and all, for commercial space travel some time soon. Sub-stratosphere,Paul Moller and his team keep working on getting their sexy sky cars into your garage. I keep checking my Travel Editor’s inbox for a review from someone who’s had a test drive but I won’t hold my breath.

On the subject of breath, smoke ‘em if you got ‘em because it doesn’t say anywhere in the latest couple rounds of research from our old friends at Randwhat plans, if any, we should all be making for the kind of Jetsons-style get-ups that could allow us a steady supply of oxygen during our daily lives. Would I be able to remove the fishbowl to comb my hair or would nanobots comb it for me? I’m glad I don’t have to worry about it for now.

In our more immediate future, the prospect of discrete wearable computersmay be improved by such recent breakthroughs as those of a lab in Palo Alto called Nanosolar. I used to think the short-lived proliferation of paper suits and skirts the ‘Sixties enjoyed must have been pretty neat. Now I’m imagining changeable neckties and shirt cuffs made of solar paper used to power my mohair entertainment center.

I went and met with the company’s president yesterday and he said the lightweight nature of their major power supply material will be applied to huge rooftops rather than little wristwatches and such. However, he assured me there are other companies working on the so-called ‘embedded’ market of laptop batteries and the like.

I still have my heart set on an invisible desktop-level system one would be free to move about in. We are already seeing signs of solutions to the principal interface design challenges of discrete wearable computing. One wants to see what one is doing while one controls one’s devices. An array of experimental developments move the optical part on top closer to something akin to a pair of Ray-bans, while developments at Apple may be paving the way to a better connection with the hands below. The popularity of the iPod has established our familiarity with a circular controller. I was wondering about the steering wheel and there it is! The latest, though it offers less control — shuffle only — has a controller the size of a jacket button. Do you see where I’m going with this idea? Give that little button the added dimension of command a rotating ring affords and you’ve got your James Bond suit.

Unfortunately, the same factor contributing to the likelihood of a need to wear fishbowls on our heads might interfere with important developments in bespoke CPU’s and that is the increasing scarcity of water. I might worry about electrocution if the circuits in my stitches have to share space with tiny tubes carrying recycled H2O. Fortunately, fashion is a fast-moving game and there may be no interference there at all, depending on how quickly or slowly the powers that be manage to destroy the delicate balance of Nature. Style is what’s important after all, and will probably win that race.

On the subject of water combined with style, the movie to see, if you haven’t already, is The Life Aquatic With Steve Zissou, if only for the soundtrack. If you have already seen it, see it again, if only for the astounding special effects wizardry provided by animation director Henry Selick. It’ll make you wish you could breathe underwater. Beyond the sea, but still on the silver screen, meanwhile, we have Kevin Spacey’s creative telling of the story of performer Bobby Darrin. Sadly, he is no more believable in the part than is another dedicated actor in another biopic, the new Scorsese picture. Leo DiCaprio hasn’t a pin on Howard Hughes. At least the focus on the all-around amazing pioneer is mainly on his innovations in the field of aviation, but I might have preferred to see two hours of the H-1 Racer in action. One thing we do learn from the film, in any case, is that production on the Hercules was stalled by Hughes’ indecision on the aircraft’s steering wheel so, there, you see, the steering wheel is important.

© Jonathan Ogilvy 2005 – 2012 [Published 31 January 2005]

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“I’ve got nothing to wear!” Does that sound familiar?

The fishnet tights have been a huge hit on the catwalks this season; they’re perfect to get that slick city kitten look. Combine them with a pleated skirt and you’ve got a great mix of lady chic and a rough edge. To avoid that “stringed ham” look and to keep your toes from peering through the holes in a not so sexy way, use a pair of regular tights underneath. I also feel it’s necessary to advise you that there’s no acceptable way of wearing fishnets with a too short skirt or — an even more horrid idea — mix and match this look with trainers (of course you wouldn’t). That would ruin the whole idea.

You will find fishnet tights in a well-assorted department store near you. I personally recommend the brand Jonathan Aston’s, which come in several different colours every season.

Scarves have been seen as an old ladies accessory by the average girl for way too long. No matter if you’re 16 or 64, you could and should wear one. It could be for the ever so sharp day at the office or to smart up your favourite A-line dress for cocktails. An excellent point in this matter must be that you can find really exceptional scarves without ruining yourself, I’m sure there will be loads in your favourite second-hand store.

So rummage through your closet for all dresses and skirts you might have given up hope on and declared to boring and reinvent them. It will make all the difference.

© Nina Odelfalk 2000 – 2012 [Published 6 June 2000]

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The first in a 3 part series on Mod jewellery, starting with swinging, moving onto Classic Chrome and ending up all Glamorous. Marvellous…..

Not all Mods wear jewellery – certainly not most Mod blokes! But what is true about jewellery is that it is an accessory, and accessories are vital to Mod style, whether it’s a handbag or bracelet or a hat. Attention to detail is paramount. As with any accessory, you have to make sure it matches, and with the case of women’s Mod style, it means you really need lots of different pieces of jewellery to make sure that every outfit is accessorised well. A diamante bracelet will go nicely with a plain black dress, but not that well with a swirly paisley patterned shirt! And plastic daisy earrings would look daft with an early 60’s cocktail dress (unless you’re one of these lucky people who can carry anything off!).

Of course, it all depends on what jewellery you find. Even though original pieces of 60’s fashion are increasingly hard to come by, junk shops are literally heaving with pieces of 60’s (and 60’s-style) jewellery. You can find all different kinds – from big, plastic, square rings to small diamante necklaces. This means it’s up to you, to use your own discretion when matching these finds with the outfits you have.

If you’re what is known as ‘swinging’ or ‘psychedelic’, diamante and pearls are probably not your cup of tea. A quick look around you at any Mod night will tell you that most girls seem to be more along those lines than the early 60’s style. My own reading of this is that, because most Mod nights are in need of air conditioning, it’s far more comfortable to be wearing a shift dress than a suit or a roll neck or a cardigan. And as the shift dress figures so predominantly in the swinging and psychedelic look, it is perhaps little surprising that most girls at Mod dos adopt those looks. Especially in the case of younger Mod girls, the early 60’s look isn’t flavour of the month.

And so we enter the realm of plastic jewellery, seeing as most girls own this more than they do diamante and pearls. The range of jewellery available is only hindered by the imaginations of its manufacturers and designers. With the case of a material as chameleon as plastic, it is little surprising that so many styles can be found made with it.

Enormous rings are available made from plastic. Some of the best of these are slightly transparent, in colours such as orange or yellow. Following on from this, perhaps, was the fad (I don’t know, it might still be continuing) for wearing rings with huge lumps of amber set in them. And these are worn both by men and women.

Gigantic plastic earrings were very popular in the 60’s, as can be seen by the number of women wearing them in 60’s films (Adrienne Posta’s vast collection in ‘Up the Junction’ being a prime example!). I can’t claim to ever having seen a mod bloke wearing this type of earring, but who knows what some of the crazier element get up to…! One problem with wearing this type of earring is purely practical – they can feel quite heavy after a while, so make sure you have a handy pocket or handbag to stow them away in!

I own a pair of plastic daisy earrings which shout ‘swinging 60’s’ – perhaps rather to loudly, as you can see in the above photo! It is impossible to be subtle in plastic earrings, especially in the biggest size ones, which can reach down to your shoulders. This means that they must match what you are wearing – they are so obvious that if they don’t go, it will only emphasise your fashion faux pas. But that’s not to say you shouldn’t attempt this style. One way to carry the look off would be to wear a dress of the same colour as your earrings, or to wear bold, contrasting colours, such as white earrings with a black and white dress, or pink earrings with an orange dress with pink dots. You see what I’m getting at…. It might even be a good idea to match the colour of your plastic earrings with your shoes or handbag or other pieces of jewellery. This is where your own innate sense of style will dictate what you should do!

Plastic bangles are quite fantastic, and would be a good way of harmonising your plastic earrings with the rest of your outfit. They’re quite easy to find new on the High Street. Although that may make it seem like they’re not ‘exclusive’, at least by buying new, you can avoid the brittleness which you get with old items of plastic. I once had a 60’s necklace, with a black and white design in plastic, but it snapped! Boo-hoo!

So as long as your jewellery matches your clothes, and vice versa, you can’t go wrong.

© Helen Barrell 2001 – 2012 [Published 16 August 2001]

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Blazer 1: one that blazes 2: a single-breasted sports jacket in bright stripes or solid color. (Websters)

The blazer as a garment walks the fine line between formal and informal wear. Whether you wear it strolling down your favourite street with the swagger of a metropolitan boulevardiér or when in a hurry to work (deftly avoiding screaming children and their mothers), the blazer is a great piece of clothing. Depending on how you combine it you could be just perfectly dressed for the occassion. So let´s smartly about face and look to the origins of the blazer in it´s first and most double-breasted form.

Looking at the classic blazer, the double-breasted blue one with brass buttons, the conclusion that the jacket is of military tradition is rather obvious. Legend has it that the commanding officer of the frigatte HMS Blazer had a special uniform-jacket made for his men at some time when queen Victoria was going to make an appearance. It was styled after the short jacket worn by naval men at this time (1830-50).This new garment found royal approval and was soon appreciated by both naval men and marine minded gentlemen who wanted to sport something that wasn´t a uniform but still associated with maritime virtues. Hence the name: blazer. The result of civilians having jackets like these made for occasions sportif and also naval officers getting jackets tailored in the same style as their uniforms, evolved into what is the originator of both the sporty striped blazer (a bastard child bearing many names) and the plain blue blazer. End of history lesson.

Nowadays a blazer can look almost anyway you please, of course within certain given parameters: namely style and the threat of your friends having a go at you. Basically the only valid definition of a blazer is this: a short jacket, blue in color, always with two sidevents and a double-breastwith brass buttons . Does this remotely sound like anything you have hanging in your wardrobe? I shouldn´t think so. Fortunately there has been a lot of changes in the makeup of this garment. The striped blazer worn byrowing-club members sweating at the thwarts. The light jacket with a shiny finish of the mediterranean gentleman sipping his Pernod. The bottle-green blazer favored by americans mostly (this is the only place where colours other than darkblue is popular in the plain jackets). Somewhere along the line the blazer even lost it´s brass buttons (which were only there to flaunt membership of clubs, etc). In these times with a wide array available, the line between jacket and blazer is a thin one. If you start hollering: belay that bolard, tote that rope and starboard helmsman!.. you´re probably wearing one (a blazer that is).

The stylistic qualities of the blazer cannot be overlooked. Many tasty photos adorning some very groovy records reveal several hip cats of royal pedigree wearing them. If you´re going to look to the continent there are several very good examples: Serge Gainsborough , Boris Vian … you know, cool guys.Steve Marriott used to look really smart in the striped ones and most of the Creation wore them and still managed to look hard. Ard. Oh sorry, guess I am overstating it a bit. Still if you´re into history this is a point isn´t?

Most mens outfitters stock good off the peg blazers. If you´re in Italy I guess you could pay Brioni a visit. The Italians are known for the subtelty and novelty of their materials. Maybe some mohair and silk would look good? Italy is the land of fabric possibilities. But really why go overboard with this when the charm in the blazer lies in its simplicity . There´s nothing wrong with a plain blue one is there? But if you want ”a garment cut by an individual, for an individual, by an individual” then it´s a nice touch.

So how to get the look right? Well it´s up to you. Are you into the more bohemic style go for the plain ones (we´re talking mod bohemic) combined with a pair of light trousers. Corduroy or moleskin looks really good. Traditionally the combination of dark blue and brown is considered bad. But then again because of tradition people on horseback in red ridingcoats (”redingote” in french, which always cracks me up) dementedly gallivants around the english countryside chasing some poor fox. The fox ain´t evenJane Fonda or Monica Vitti (I know it sounds unbelievable). If you want that youthful look in the summer get a striped one and match it with a pair of really dark denims and suede slipons.

With a blazer you could even leave the top button of your shirt open (gasp!)

While you´re at it, stuff a Hermes scarf in your collar and sit down at the grand piano and play ”Trains, Boats and Planes” to entertain your friends if they are in a Burtish mood. You see, it makes perfect sense doesn´t it? The blazer is the preserve of the jetset and who are you to argue?

© Jules Olivier 2001 – 2012 [Published 26 January 2001]

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Have you ever wondered about what to wear the first day on the new job? Do not fear… check this out and add to your confusion!

Personal style is something that most people take for granted, but how do you apply it to holding down a job? This is in all probability a problem encountered by quite a few as a job, in general, is something essential to maintaining your lifestyle. How do you avoid overdressing in the eyes of others and if so, how do you dress down without feeling uncomfortable? There is of course the consideration to what sort of work you do and what line of business your in. For example: dressing smarter than your boss or the salesmen at work could probably be detrimental to your wages. “Upstarts” are generally not appreciated. But the fact remains that sometimes the only satisfaction to be had at work, is the mental sniggering at others stylistic faux-pas. As long as you don’t give it away with a smirk, (and man, sometimes you do have to check yourself) this can be great. Do remember: just like cannibalism this is an attitude better kept to yourself.

Your clothes should be a reflection of your own self-confidence. Sometimes it strikes you how much more serious and competent a co-worker would look if he’d only taken a look in the mirror. In a psychological sense this kind of reasoning is sound. What you wear is quite often the basis of how you’re judged… just like having dirty fingernails will give an impression of you being a sloppy person, being neat and clean will give the impression of an organized and disciplined person. “Mena sana in corpore sana”, or something like that… A safe bet, if you’re working at an office, are the classics that are perceived as conservative by most people: polo-shirts, button-downs, straight-legged trousers, sta-prest, brogues, loafers… Hairstyle could range from crew cut to near backcomb (your co-workers will only think that you sleep with your pillow on top your head). A decent tan hides multitudes of sins and is also rather healthy (or so I’ve heard). A good concealer also covers the tracks of yesterday’s night about town. Ties are the hard part. Mainstream fashion changes rapidly and there have been some years since the inch-wide tie was de rigueur amongst the office-boys. The same applies for cravattes as you will probably be seen as a suspect individual wearing one, and quite soon there will be rumors floating about regarding your alleged habit of cross-dressing (oh yes, camp indeed…). Jobs that require uniforms obviously raise a whole lot of other problems. Some uniforms are quite nice (well hey, look at Keith Moon) some are proof to the whole theory of singling out a specific group of people and making them use a hilarious uniform, and thereby promoting their team-spirit and sense of separation from the rest of humanity (the foreign legions caps are a brilliant example). There are solutions. You can alter most uniforms and a uniform that fits well will obviously look better (with the exception of Spanish bullfighters, of course). Pegged legs and a slimmer silhouette will help. Sometimes you might be restricted by regulations, but as long as you don’t ask your superiors it’s amazing what you can get away with. In fact, a friend of mine who at the time worked for the Stockholm transportational service actually got scouted for an article about street wear for one of the major Swedish daily papers. At that particular time he was wearing the regulation dark-blue bum-freezer, a pair of dark slacks and a Romeo Gigli shirt. I don’t think you could attribute the incident to just dumb luck.

The main thing is that if you’re feeling comfortable you’ll be sending out the vibe of a person with confidence. And then you’re on your way to a whole new life of professionalism, success and probably yoga and power-naps too.

© Jules Olivier 2000 – 2012 [Published 9 June 2000]

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Even though it’s pretty much “vinyl only!” when it comes to northern soul – apart from the occasional styrene – the modern day technology is embraced as far as films go. Yes, it’s DVD. Fits neatly in you hold all. Lars Schröder tells you more.

Northern soul, the underground cult that refuse to die.

Previously DVD-wise we’ve had the frankly awful “Strange world of Ian Levine” or whatever it was called. Is this shiny disc any better? Well, could it be worse? No.

Soul Function contains three parts. First we are treated to the great short film “Function at the Junction”, a 15 minute time warp into the seventies, complete with enormous trousers, dodgy ‘taches and speed freaks. A whole lot of man made fabrics as well… The story revolves around a dancing competion at a small northern soul club in a non-descript town in the north of England. The plot might not be much to write home about, but there’s amazing dance moves and good enough music. The film also has a brilliant cameo role byPaul Kaye (of TV´s Dennis Pennis fame) as the somewhat spastic and/or enthusiastic dj.

Part two of the DVD is a documentary called “Way of the Crowd”. Here we meet a lot of scene faces, some well known, some not so, and some rather surprising (Sir Paul Smith!). All describing their love for the northern scene and what it has done to them. The ubiquitous dj´s features as well – Ady Croasdell, Pat Brady and Wigan Joker Russ Winstanley (minus amusing facial hair). Keb Darge as usual delivers his wisdom in his hard-as-nails Scottish drawl. The interviews come with footage from the Wigan Casino in the seventies, some of it from the infamous “This England” documentary shot by Granada TV back in 1977, complete with tank tops, acrobatic dancing and very sweaty young men and women.

Part three is simply a picture gallery with still pictures from the two films. There’s also a 20-track CD with some of the songs featured in the films, and a booklet with notes on the films and a short essay on northern soul by Dr Katie Milestone.

All in all, a very nice and beautifully packaged introduction to one of the most truly underground club cultures to ever have come from the British isles. Nostalgic anecdotes and adulation of days gone by at Wigan is a big part of this DVD package, but if get you hooked by the music and inspired by the dancing, rest assured there’s plenty of spinning, kicking and splits going on at your nearest all-nighter. If you haven’t been to one yet, why not pay one a visit. It might change your life, it might not, but there’s good times to be had.

© Lars Schröder 2004 – 2012 [Published 21 December 2004]

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Should wearers of sunglasses after dark immediately be put out of their misery? Or should it be deemed a lesser offence those times when you´re doing a fair impression of ol’ Mr Redeye? This information is for your eyes only. It’s a stylistic hot potato!! (catch) No, I’m not mad, simply talking about shades…..should they be worn at night? Is this the ultimate fashion crime ? What style of frame is suitable for the average modernist clubber? (if there is such a thing as an “average” mod).

Well it of course would be fair to say that it is entirely up to the individual. I know my fellow fashion scribe Richard H believes that it is indeed a heinious crime to sport shades after dark, and I would have to agree, unless you are either a celeb (which means you can commit all sorts of bizarre and wonderful fashion blunders and escape unscathed) or you just don’t give two hoots what anyone else thinks. However, let us admit that we have all wanted to don a smooth pair of sunglasses for an evening (let alone during a summer’s day) in order to achieve that sophisticated “rock star” kudos just for one night. Or could this just be me? Yes, I admit, I’ve done it! So, if you insist on covering your eyes on a soul drenched evening, at least do it with your “mince pies” encased in a decent set of shades.

Modernists have always been fond of eyewear, mainly because it was the fashion staple of all their early blues/r’n'b heroes, such as Sonny Boy Williamson and Champion Jack Dupree . On the soul scene it was also a predominant look, the obvious pioneer being Little Stevie Wonder (although he had other “issues” related to his eyewear…). It is from this early era that the Ray Ban Wayfarer became the first choice of sun deflecting lens for well groomed kids in and around London, and is still widely worn by those favouring the early look. When purchasing go for the original style, black all over (avoid mottled sunglasses, they are for Jaguar driving bank managers with pot bellies,) and make sure they are quite wide. They should almost look a little too big, as they stick out slightly at the corner of each lens. If in doubt, just ask for the classic “Jack Nicholson” shape. Of course, nowadays Ray Ban follow the “logo is everything” trend, and theirs will probably be emblazoned on the arm. Nevertheless, the look is timeless and instant modernist cred will be all yours!

And of course, onto the infamous “Liam” shades…. the Lennon style tinted thin silver framed style of sunglasses that dominated the scene throughout the mid to late sixties. These were sported by both savvy modernists and then simultaneously by “smelly” hippies, probably due to the fact that they were both reminicent of the Victorian Dandy era (think the Moody Blues or Procol Harum) and so fitted with all that poetry/bohemian stuff and that they just look plain stylish. The varying list of fans is a mish mash of sixties luminaries. Marriott oft wore the very thin rectangular style, in blue tint as did the lead singer of the Byrds in the US, Lennon of course either the octagon frames or the complete circle, in differing shades. Take a walk down Oxford Street and a pair can be yours for about a fiver, but as honest quality is everything, pop along to Kirk Originals in Covent Garden, off Neal Street and get a pair made for you by specialists. Pricey, but not that bad: I had a nice pair of Marriott style shades made there for seventy quid. (Their “ready-to-wear” range is actually more expensive). These are also a good choice as they compliment both casual and evening wear, and CAN be worn at night on the odd occasion, as they are tints as opposed to out and out sunglasses. If you’ve the right shaped face, bascially thin and long with a sizable hooter, they look quite good perched at the end of the nose. Very rebellious. Best if you decide that though.

Another style of sunglasses that became quite popular during the late sixties are the Aviators . Again, produced by Ray Ban, the style became somewhat over worked and oversized lens wise by the mid seventies; but by then everything was oversized and overworked, such as collars: but thats another road down which I’m not about to travel. The sixties aviators were sported not just by our mates over the pond but by bands such as the Smoke , and Clem Curtis of the Foundations. Go for the smaller style with more compact lens, in either blue or bronze tint. High fashion labels such as Gucci andPrada have been knocking their own versions out for a while, but the original makers are always the best, so stick with the Bausch & Lombs . These are best teamed with leather jackets or psychedelic print shirts (ensuring that the collar is authentic late sixties slightly wide and sharp…..careful or you’ll end up looking like a heavy from Hawaii Five-O).

Lastly, another slightly rarer style of sunglasses are the scooter frames, worn funnily enough, not just by scooter boys but by Soho stylists for a brief period too. The big, squared off Gucci and Prada (again) frames that seem to be superglued to every tanktop wearing spikey haired trendy this side of Timbucktoo, are a complete ripoff of the look first worn by modernists in sixties London. Unfortunatley as I have discussed with my editor Jules, these labels seem unable to produce accessories devoid of ridiculous branding. My search for these style of frames continues. If you are unsure of the look, it was worn most famously by Pete Townshend circa ’65-’66, and worn with the racing look predominantly, although he also wore it with a nice checked three button blazer, but that’s slightly risky if you ask me. Large frames, gold rimmed and tinted in greens, light blues and amber, they were soon taken on by the moddy boys and flashed on Brighton pier accordingly. Interestingly, they made a serious resurgence during the slightly questionable “revival” of the late seventies. If anyone knows where to purchase a clean pair please mail me!!

There are plenty of variations on these styles, and others altogether, and yet again, rely on your own stylistic preferences when it comes to colour, shape and clothing accompaniments. As for wearing them at night at your nearest soul den… well I’ll leave that up to you.

© Joel Maslin 2001 – 2012 Uppers [Published 13 February 2001]

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Shoes can make or break an outfit, but original 60′s shoes are hard to find. When women’s 60′s shoes are available in second hand shops, they are rarely in sizes above a 6, and wearing someone else’s old shoes isn’t really healthy. Helen Barrell gives you a guide to High Street mod shoe shopping for girls.

Most of the shoes I have at the moment are from Rackhams in Birmingham. This is because they have a tremendous selection of designer shoes, from Italian, French and Spanish labels such as Carvela, Roland Cartier andRoberto Vianni. But when I was marooned for 3 years on the Isle of Wight, I had only the shoes in Next and Curtess to choose from. So instead I got my shoes (as well as my false eyelashes – see make-up article in Dansette #7) from a stage shop. I have enormous feet (so people say), an 8 (though in Ancient Greece big feet on women were considered very elegant, and oddly enough, Audrey Hepburn’s feet were an 8 as well!), and though 8′s were, a few years ago, non-existent, one of the few places you could buy size 8′s from were stage shops. Don’t ask why. So I used to wear tap shoes. The first pair I got were white Oxford taps. They are fantastic – white, pointy-toed with a Cuban heel, laced up. Only thing is, someone sincerely asked me why mods wore ‘American nurses shoes’. Still, I rather like them!

The next pair were the more traditional type of tap shoe, and unlike the Oxfords, these ones came with an enormous chunk of metal – the tap – which I had to prise off with a screwdriver! And it wasn’t easy! These are pointy-toed, though not severely so – perhaps more of a pointy-almond, if such a thing exists. Well, it does now. These are black leather and have a Cuban heel. As you can see from the photo, they are very close in style to shoes that were available in the 60′s. I suggest you take the tap shoes to the cobbler and have them re-soled and re-heeled, as you’ll probably find that the soles are too thin to walk about the streets in.

Taps are great as they are such a wonderful shape, and it may make you look like an extra in Billy Elliot, and dance all around and about the streets (which reminds me – ballet slippers…). They are perfect for dancing in – being dancing shoes, but if your feet are wide, the pointy-toe makes the fitting rather snug – perversely, you will find blisters developing from a gentle stroll, but a feeling like dancing on air if you wear them to an allniter where you can’t stop dancing!

Dear Audrey Hepburn – she really is a ‘shoe icon’ of mine – there is a movement who want her to be canonised and I think she should be made the Patron Saint of Large-Footed Ladies! She wore ballet slippers – the iconic photos of Audrey dressed in black roll neck and slinky black trousers with decorated ballet slippers really are the epitome of style. When everyone else was wearing 5″ spiky stilettos and destroying their toes and backs permanently, Audrey wore flatties. For your own pair of ballet pumps, tryFrench Sole, Ellis Street, London, SW1 or Munster Road, SW6. I think they do mail order as well. Phone ‘em on: 020 7471 4867. Otherwise, get back to the stage shop and again, see if you can get proper ‘street’ soles put on. Ballet-style leather pumps are quite easy to come by in those shoe boutiques for ‘mature’ ladies.

I was lucky to get some leather ballet-style pumps from Bella Ricco (now disappeared). Entirely flat heel, I really can’t tell you how much I love to wear these shoes! The sole is leather, which makes me swirl about the house when I’m wearing them, with a very low (well under a centimetre) rubber heel. This makes them ideal for dancing in as you can spin on the leather of your toe, and use the rubber heel as an effective brake! My pumps are also mock-croc burgundy leather and look lovely with early-60′s style outfits.

My other ballet pumps are more ballet-esque, as they have a tiny leather bow at the front. They’re by Principal Studio, and I found them in one of those shops where old ladies who wear lots of gold jewellery shop! Of course – after all, these shoes are silver!!! Very comfortable (I really am of the opinion that shoes shouldn’t be an implement of self-inflicted torture…) and they look lovely in the Audrey-style outfit of black trousers and roll neck. Intellectual Beatnik-style chin-stroking not necessary (though fun accompanied by a copy of Sartre’s Nausea, a packet of Gitanes and a cappuccino outside a Soho café, or somewhere on the Left Bank in Paris…or maybe even your local Costa Coffee).

Continuing on an Audrey note, there is the kitten heel. It has been said that the kitten heel was expressly designed for Audrey for her performance in Sabrina. Kitten heels around now have a modern twist, though to be quite honest, I much prefer the 50′s/60′s style heel. But then, I’m just difficult to please. Schuh do a nice selection at the moment (that is, Autumn/Winter ’00), and I bought a pair of what I thought to be my ultimate shoes – pointy-toed, kitten heeled slingbacks! I can just hear Eartha Kitt purring in delight from her post on the grand piano! They don’t pinch the toe as much as you might think, as the toe is extremely long (now, with size 8′s, you can imagine how long these shoes make my feet look!). But sadly these shoes are unwearable! And why? Because the slingback won’t stay on my heel; it keeps bloody sliding down! What should I do? Use surgical tape? Or how about a bolt in my ankle, like Andy Warhol had on his skull to keep his wigs on?!

Carvela, my favourite shoe makers, are doing a lovely range of kitten heels, very 50′s/60′s styled. Just check out the photo – marvel at the shape of the heel! Gasp at the point of the toe! And these don’t even fall off when I’m wearing them (always a bonus!). They are maroon/red mock croc and are my current favourite shoes. With a heel thicker than a kitten, we have the court shoe. The most 60′s style ones should have a square heel, covered the same as the upper of the shoe. There were a lot in this style around a couple of years ago, and I got mine from Jones. The photo shoes these – black patent, square toed, with the silver buckle over the toe (I also found some similar ones the year before in Faith). As the heel is wider than the kitten, they’re not so ‘wobbly’ to walk in. Marvellous. Ravel had some lovely ones with tortoiseshell tags instead of silver buckles, and every summer some shoe labels include white versions with the tortoiseshell tags.

Carvela, again, did the black patent court thang this year. Chisel toed, with a leather bow at the front. The heel’s lovely, being a cross between the square court heel and kitten. Marvellously sophisticated. Carvela do some lovely colours – I also have these in pale blue.

Now for the ‘dolly’ shoes. As you know, these have been popular on the High Street for well over a year now, and it’s really refreshing to be able to find, in such abundance, so many low heeled, wide-fitting, blunt-toed shoes! We girls have fond memories of our school shoes from Clarks and Startrite… (remember them? And Clarks’ ‘Magic Steps’ with the key in the sole which allegedly had something to do with Peter Pan and princesses? – it was the shoe that every seven-year-old girl wanted!).

I have to come clean – in Dansette #6, I sung the praises of my Carvela dollies. Well, I am now completely obsessed with these shoes, which can only be described as beautiful, and own 5 pairs of them – all plucked from the sales in Rackhams, though! They have a low heel, square toe, with the strap quite near the front of the shoe (see photo). I own two pairs of very pale pearlised grey ones with a small buckle on the strap, and then three with the strap being elasticated. These three are in different colours – black, dark grey and pale blue.

Roland Cartier are doing a similar shoe. The heel is similar, but is better described, perhaps, as a cross between the ballet pump and dolly – see photo. They were my favourite shoes, until I found my Carvela kitten heels! There are loads of dollies about – some with bigger heels are quite nice.

Then Roberto Vianni – the outfitters of Milanese housewives? I have lots of loafers, but my favourite, just for sheer chutzpah, are the YELLOW SUEDE ones from Vianni. Ah, marvellous!

So there you go… even though the stocks of original 60′s ladies shoes are drying up, quicker than the European beer lake does at a scooter rally, there are still shoe designers out there who are making 60′s style shoes which you can buy new, or other shoes which you can just improvise with. This article barely scratches the surface, but I hope that if any of you are stuck for shoes, then you’ll get some ideas from here. Men are more lucky when it comes to finding good shoes on the High Street as men’s styles never seen to go through the drastic changes that women’s styles do, but just keep your ears and eyes to the ground, and 60′s shoe delights shall be yours, my sisters!

© Helen Barrell 2001 – 2012 Uppers [Published 21 March 2001]

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Ties

A brief look at the modern history of the tie. And some other things that might be of interest. The true origin of the tie is somewhat muddled and depends on the definition of said object. If you take a more loose stance towards it, you´ll end up in Rome before the Trajanus column which is the oldest portrait of a man in something that loosely resembles a tie. The so called ”focale” came from the Roman legionnaires who used what we nowadays would call a scarf to protect throat and neck from dirt and dust during long marches towards frontiers to quell barbarous insurgency. A nice image to mull over as you, casually, tie a four in hand knot in front of the mirror.

In the early eighteen hundreds George Bryan Brummel (a.k.a Beau Brummel) devised a new style, a starched linnen scarf tied around the neck. Legend has it that Brummel always had a large amount of starched scarfs in case he should be mispleased with the fashioning of the knot at which point he would simply chose a new scarf and tried again.

If you want a more modern version, the one patented by Jesse Langsdorf in the middle of the 1920:s, will probably be more recognisable. This blueprint of the modern tie was not only cut 45° contrary to the fibres of the material, but the tie was also made by three separate pieces of cloth. This made it less flimsy in comparison to its predecessors. Before this innovation ties were cut by the lenght of the fibre, which meant that the knot would leave ugly marks on the tie after wearing and consequently made it less durable. The genius of the more modern construction is clear as the same technique is used in most ties to this day.

Club Ties

In 1880 the members of a faculty at Oxford University agreed to wearing the ribbon usually found in their straw hats (please don´t ask…) around their necks. The rush of students and faculty members at the local tailor must´ve been quite notable and soon the practice was popularised at several other institutions and clubs. This style was later picked up by the middleclasses to signal succes and wealth. The patterned tie popularised at this time (turn of the century) was called the Macclesfield tie… Probably because it was produced in Macclesfield which, at the time, was the Mecca for the processing of raw silk from the Orient.
The modern club tie signals a connection to a prestigious institution/club and it might be suitable to take this into consideration before buying one. Maybe a bit of research into the background of the pattern of the tie? Of course no one could be faulted for wearing a pattern because of purely aesthetic reasons. In fact juxtaposing these kind of symbols could, if you´re clever enough, be quite entertaining, but then again I´m not British. A great favourite of mine is the pattern of the Life Guards. Nice big bold stripes.

What to Look For

If you´re not an expert in the exciting field of how to determine the quality of cloth, it might be a good idea to feel the fabric of the tie you´re going to purchase. You´ll need to when you tie it anyway. Test the fabric in the same way you might test the fabric of a suit. Pinch it and see if it leaves a permanent mark/wrinkle. Be moderate. Shopassistants will have seen this before, but they might not be so patient if you start flogging the tie against a chairleg. You basically have two choices: silk or wool. Traditionally a silk tie is the safest bet. The wool tie is more popular in certain regions than in others. Due consideration needs to be spent on how you match fabrics in an ensemble. No surprises there. Though it might be worth to note that some wool ties lend themselves better to certain collars and tie knots. If in doubt try it in front of a mirror with differing collars and knots. What is most pleasant to you is probably down to taste

Different Ties

You might like to buy a handmade tie. Actually for a tie to be called handmade, the only seam that has to be made by hand, is the mid inner seam (that connects the three different parts of your noose). A tailormade tie has the advantage of being perfectly adjusted to your build and the shirt/s you´re going to wear it with. The biggest pro (I believe) is that if you´re able to decide the thickness of the liner you can also decide the style of the knot. Let me rephrase: if you want a big knot get a tie with thicker lining, don´t tie the knot in a more elaborate way to get that eyecatching result. It might also strike your fancy to purchase an all silk or 100% cashmere tie. These are not in effect purely made of aforementioned materials, as the interlaying liner will in all probabilty not be in the same material as the”shell fabric”. There are of course exceptions like the seven-fold-tie. This tie is made from a quadratic piece of cloth and is shaped by folding seven times. No liner to make up the bulk of your tie.

The term selftipping tie, means that the two ends of the tie are lined with the same material as the ties shell fabric is made of. This is more often than not the trademark of Italian ties.

A knit tie is a very nice alternative to the standards. You´ve almost certainly seen several nice photos of stylish actors and artists in these kind of ties. Knit ties will almost always have a ”blunt” end.

These ties not only look good, but are also quite practical as you usually find that it is a lot easier to tie these and get a symmetrical tie-knot. Quite often the part that you actually tie around your neck is made slimmer, which means it´ll fit perfectly underneath most collars.

Ties should be treated like shoes, ie. let your favourite tie rest quite often. If you do find that a night about town has wrinkled your favourite, either hang it in the bathroom after you´ve showered or carefully roll it around the width of your palm. You´ll find it in better shape in the morning. Never wash a tie. And if you do leave it to the drycleaners, be warned: you just might get those telltale flat edges resulting from ironing. This will ruin the appearance of any nicely made tie. If you do find yourself with a soiled/dirty tie you might be able to save it with a stain remover. Try the agent on a part of the tie that doesn´t show when you´ve tied it to make sure that the remover doesn´t bleach the tie.

© Jules Olivier 2001 – 2012 Uppers [Published 18 October 2001]

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Gold and Falsies?

Ok, you’ve got yourself a pair of fishnets. What’s next? Put a little more glamour into your every day life perhaps. Long since a favourite of Egyptian pharaohs and James Bond assassins, gold has been a huge fashion no no for quite some time now. This season however it made a bold come back.

Of course you don’t have to go as far as poor Ms Shirley Eaton in Goldfinger. Just put a little sparkle in your wardrobe and beauty box, it could be a pair of high heels, a beaded evening baguette or why not wear some on your pretty face. Especially for summer when you should have worked out quite a nice glow anyway, just add some golden powder on your cheeks and shine away.

There are loads of shimmery products out there for both face and body.

In the 60’s Eylure sold eight million pairs a day. Dusty Springfield wouldn’t go on tour without them and Shirley Bassey had real diamonds set into hers. They were the ultimate make-up accessory, it wasn’t like today when a woman who admits to spending more than five minutes on her face today, is considered stupid by many folks.

Naturally I’m talking about false eyelashes.

Everyone who has tried to apply them knows that it’s not exactly done in a sec, but you soon get a hold of things if you practise. It’s not considered an every day make up procedure perhaps but with the modern “falsies” you can quite easily get a more natural look without taking away the feeling beyond gorgeous.

I personally recommend the ones, which are cut up into individual splays of lashes; they’re much easier to apply. Shu Uemura have both individual and full lashes in lots of colours, also gold mind you.

Face Stockholm has them in different lengths and shades of brown/black.

© Nina Odelfalk  Uppers 2000 – 2012 [Published 20 June 2000]

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Pip! Pip! Are the Creative Business Engine behind various music based organisations of the cool underground variety. Providing angst, confusion, bewilderment and annoyance in equal amounts. We design/host/manage great sites like this one! Why not hire us one day soon?

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